Thursday, September 16, 2004

Pixie's Tips for Cambodia

I've compiled a listing of places to stay, eat and visit while in Cambodia.

BORDER CROSSING
If you are going to cross the border by road from Thailand (Poipet) or Vietnam (Moc Bai) into Cambodia, make sure you try to do it as early as possible. Also be aware of tours that leave too late from the Thai border. In particular, if you're going from Thailand to Siem Reap (a 4-5 hour journey by road), there are buses that take you but some are not on the up-and-up. The scam is that they leave late, getting you into Cambodia late and disoriented. They then say they have to stop overnight and take everyone to a "friend's" guest house. Be aware of this and make sure your bus leaves early in the day to avoid this problem.

SIEM REAP
STAY:
Bun Nath Guest House - #446, National Road 6. Email: bunnath_gh@hotmail.com. Very clean. Double rooms with private bath and A/C was about $15/night. On the "edge" of the downtown area but still accessible and walking distance to most things.

EAT/DRINK...BE MERRY:
Dead Fish Cafe - a great restaurant right on the main street in Siem Reap. This is a many-things-to-many-people place. It's a restaurant, guesthouse, bar and internet cafe. The food is good and reasonably priced. You can sit upstairs in the "treehouse" and they even have a little stage up there where they perform local dance.
Soup Dragon - very good local and Vietnamese food. Don't miss out on the fresh spring rolls. I went back twice! They have a great lounge on the third-floor rooftop which overlooks the busy street below. An awesome place to just hang-out and chill.
Cafe Indochine - Upscale dining that's worth the price. A very nice treat. The atmosphere is relaxing and the food is excellent . The owner is a Frenchman and you probably get the nicest selections of wine here.
Martini Pub & Beer Garden - read "Khmer-Rave" posting for details of this place. Very interesting. A must-see/experience while in Siem Reap. Lots of fun.

DO:
Angkor Wat Complex - DUH...why else are you here? But there are also some great temples around the area that you can take a taxi to. If you want a good guide, try to find my buddy, Kun. His email is kuncambodia@hotmail.com. Don't know what he charges, but he's very knowledgeable and an all-round great guy.
Body Tune Spa - very clean and inviting spa. The girls are really nice and there's no funny business here (unlike some places in town). Ladies, you will feel quite comfortable here. AWESOME deals for massages. Two hour package (incl. foot reflexology and full aromatherapy massage) for $13!! Do it everyday!
Artisans d'Angkor - facility that trains local young people to be skilled woodworkers, stone sculptors and lacquer workers. Some beautiful things at the gift shop (also well A/C for those hot days).
Angkor Wat Miniatures - created by a man who was commissioned by the Pol Pot regime to draw the temple complex in case it was destroyed by the civil war. He has built little replicas of the complexes - really cool. It's a bit out of the way but it gets you through some more rural parts of town. Hard to find (do ask for directions) but very neat. $1 admission. Nice family.


PHNOM PENH
STAY:
Pacific Hotel - centrally located. It's walking distance from some great bars and a short tuk-tuk or motorbike ride to the riverfront. Rooms are very nice and modern. Double room with private bath and A/C about $35/night.

EAT/DRINK...BE MERRY:
Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC) - right on the riverfront. Great location. Walking distance to many restaurants and bars. A good meeting place. Happy Hour from 5-7. Food isn't bad but there's so many more choices around the neighborhood.
Friends - EXCELLENT food. This place is actually a training school to teach local young people cooking and restaurant skills. The menu is great - lots of little "tapas" like dishes that can be shared. Reasonably priced. Fun, lively atmosphere. Walking distance from FCC.
Bayan Tree - just across from the Tuol Sleng Museum. Great food - sandwiches and local dishes served in a lush tropical atmophere. It's also a gorgeous guest-house.
Riverside Cafe & Bar - right across from the riverfront. Just north of the FCC. Nice atmosphere, very attentive bar-girls who always make sure you have a drink. A couple of pool tables and even a live band. Outside seating also makes it a nice place to meet and hang out.
Heart of Darkness - read "The Horror...The Horror" posting for details of our experience here. Very interesting bar with lots of interesting folks. It's similar to many pick-up joints anywhere else in the world. Great music - everyone's dancing!

DO:
Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda - an incredible sight. Great photo opportunities. Stunning color. You get a guide with admission.
National Museum of Art - a so-so museum. The building is gorgeous, but the artifacts and museum are just okay.
Tuol Sleng Museum (Museum of Genocidal Crimes) - absolute must-see to understand the horrific history these people have endured. Make sure you go with a guide as there isn't much signage at the site and it's easy to not really get the whole picture if you're trying to decipher it yourself. Don't miss the 2nd floor of Bldg E. Read "Around Phnom Penh" posting for details.
Killing Fields - just 15km outside P.P. More history of the Pol Pot Regime. Combined with above makes for a very sombre day.